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Post by trantos01 on Jan 19, 2019 0:07:48 GMT -5
Hmm, maybe play around with the two relevant gradient colors in a given area. 'cooler' color on the surface while having the 'hotter' in the recesses. Just hope my brush cooperates.
Can't really do anything for the tendrils though as they're pretty much flat objects.
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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Jan 19, 2019 6:20:15 GMT -5
the edge highlighting is key to get the depth you're looking for.
it's tricky no doubt on that model for the tendrils (painted two myself) but gives the effect.
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Post by trantos01 on Jan 27, 2019 17:13:50 GMT -5
Hey has anyone here with experience painting a sandstone coloration?
Because I've run across a couple of different suggestions/approaches and wanted some feedback before I go grabbing more paints.
1. Prime/base black then paint with Ushabti Bone. Then P3's Fleshwash and drybrush with more Ushabti Bone. 2. Basecoat of Balor Brown, Then sequential drybrushs of Zamesi Desert, Tallarn Sand, Ushabti Bone, and then White Scar in selected areas.
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Post by Trickster Raven on Jan 27, 2019 17:20:17 GMT -5
Hey has anyone here with experience painting a sandstone coloration? Because I've run across a couple of different suggestions/approaches and wanted some feedback before I go grabbing more paints. 1. Prime/base black then paint with Ushabti Bone. Then P3's Fleshwash and drybrush with more Ushabti Bone. 2. Basecoat of Balor Brown, Then sequential drybrushs of Zamesi Desert, Tallarn Sand, Ushabti Bone, and then White Scar in selected areas. I achieved the sandstone affect on these bases by painting them with army painter's skeleton bone, then doing a heavy all over wash with agrax earth shade, followed by a light dry brush of Skelton bone again to catch the ridges. Only 2 colours and it's pretty quick to do. Hope that helps
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Post by trantos01 on Jan 27, 2019 17:30:54 GMT -5
-quick check on the big Paint Range Compatibility Chart on dakkadakka- And it's more or less the same color as Ushabti Bone. Good I can use paints I already have to get the effect I want.
Can even vary the wash/drybrush levels in areas to give an impression of darker or lighter stone.
Thanks.
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Post by Trickster Raven on Jan 27, 2019 17:31:41 GMT -5
-quick check on the big Paint Range Compatibility Chart on dakkadakka- And it's more or less the same color as Ushabti Bone. Good I can use paints I already have to get the effect I want. Can even vary the wash/drybrush levels in areas to give an impression of darker or lighter stone. Thanks. Glad to help
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Post by trantos01 on Jan 27, 2019 23:23:12 GMT -5
Yep that works.
Ended up with a much heavier dry-brush of Ushabti Bone then expected but it does gives the surface that granulated, uneven look that you often see in the sandstone.
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Post by voodoo on Jan 28, 2019 7:47:19 GMT -5
Cool! I like that you're taking a non-traditional approach to the painting of your T-Vault.
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Post by trantos01 on Jan 28, 2019 7:57:53 GMT -5
Cool! I like that you're taking a non-traditional approach to the painting of your T-Vault. Well the exterior 'armor' plates are going to be this sandstone color. The interior I'm intending black with a couple of drybrushed green layers to catch all the little raised sections. Sort of a contrast where the exterior mostly looks like some ancient relic half buried in the sand. Look under the 'hood' however, and it's all Necron.
Also since I've always painted the scarabs gold and there are ~40-60 of the little guys on the inside, they'll show up a lot better against a black background.
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Post by voodoo on Jan 28, 2019 8:47:28 GMT -5
Cool concept!
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Post by Trickster Raven on Jan 28, 2019 9:50:30 GMT -5
Yep that works.
Ended up with a much heavier dry-brush of Ushabti Bone then expected but it does gives the surface that granulated, uneven look that you often see in the sandstone.
Nice! I'm glad that helped. The vault's looking awesome.
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Post by trantos01 on Jan 31, 2019 18:45:04 GMT -5
Well for better or worse I am satisfied with the exterior portion of the shield.
Now to coat the entire thing in gloss varnish and then dullcoat the non-metallic areas before working on the other side. Because I don't want to find chips etc when I finish with with the inside and I've spent too much time getting this thing to this point already.
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Post by trantos01 on Feb 22, 2019 21:48:52 GMT -5
Down to the wire but the varnish is drying and everything is ready.
Unfortunately the ******ing glue holding the sand that I set to dry this morning on the Vault's base decided to just all flake off in chucks so I'm forced to go with a much more simplistic design than I intended. Give the various bits another 30 minutes to cure and hopefully I'll even be able to paint this mess to the same color as the rest of my army.
The good news is that I managed to get in a couple of the series mangled marines I had intended to include. In the back is the pair of the classic Smoldering Shoes/smoking boots (Antimatter meteor can hit like a train wreck) while in front is a marine that didn't quite get sucked all the way down by Seismic Assault and is being dealt with by the scarabs. "By the Emperor, get me out of here! These things are starting to discuss proper condiments and side-dishes."
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Post by trantos01 on May 27, 2019 17:38:52 GMT -5
Into every wargamer's life a little (or a lot) of resin crack must flow.
As soon as I finish touching up the last bits of my lychguard squad, my one big project (and essentially only model I'm going to be buying for a good while) for the year can start: the Seraptek Heavy Construct I ordered as my birthday present and arrived today.
When I manage to get this bad boy assembled and painted, I'm hoping for a couple of test fights against Imperial Knights down at Nexus to see how he fairs in ranged and melee combat.
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Post by trantos01 on Jun 16, 2019 21:42:51 GMT -5
With the release of the contrast paints, grabbed a couple (Black Templar and Warp Lightning) and ran a couple of quick tests to see how they behave.
Use a couple of garbage models with a black primer, P3 Pig iron (Leadbelcher equilvalant) on the pillar and half Moot green/half Warpstone glow on the spider before coating with the contrasts.
The pillar is alright, though I'll have to test a lighter metallic grey to see the degree of metallic black I can get. The darker green doesn't give a good difference from the Contrast to my eyes and the Moot Green feels like it needs a drybrush or two.
If anyone's interested in a better look at the results for deciding whether they want to grab their own CP I can bring them in on Saturday.
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