|
Post by voodoo on Feb 28, 2018 13:48:25 GMT -5
Maybe try a thin layer of Vallejo Transparent Green. It looks like ink but behaves very differently. It's closer to a glaze than an ink in that it doesn't pull away from itself but will still pool a bit in recesses while allowing the color beneath it to show through.
|
|
|
Post by trantos01 on Feb 28, 2018 17:58:47 GMT -5
Thanks. Do they have that at Nexus or is it elsewhere?
|
|
|
Post by voodoo on Feb 28, 2018 18:57:49 GMT -5
I think they have it at both Nexus and Leading Edge.
|
|
|
Post by trantos01 on Mar 8, 2018 12:48:19 GMT -5
OK ran into a problem with my next project. I have the parts and styrofoam to scratch build a Necron gauss plyon but want it to be at least semi-legit.
As such the main thing I really need to get right (or at least as close as possible) is how much space the base takes up on the game board. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to take a measuring tape to Shanon's plyon at the tournament and numbers online are A: rare and B: can't really be confirmed.
My current guesstimates are of a ~6 inch diameter circle as the base. Does that sound about right to people?
|
|
|
Post by Typhus on Mar 8, 2018 13:51:19 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by trantos01 on Mar 8, 2018 14:06:03 GMT -5
That's mostly what I've been working off of. The problem is that in the official pylon the base is in two parts.
First there is the solid circular section in the middle and then there are the 'feet' that extend out from it. So I don't know if the 'base diameter' given is from foot tip to tip or if he's measuring the center section. There's also the problem of how much of that 90mm of the feet extend out from the center base.
|
|
|
Post by Jack Shrapnel on Mar 8, 2018 14:36:37 GMT -5
I didn't get a chance to take a measuring tape to Shanon's plyon at the tournament ..... My current guesstimates are of a ~6 inch diameter circle as the base. Does that sound about right to people? given I totally just guessed when I made mine... lol... sounds good to me!
|
|
|
Post by trantos01 on Mar 8, 2018 14:47:21 GMT -5
I had figured about the same coverage as a Monolith overall.
|
|
|
Post by trantos01 on Mar 14, 2018 13:12:09 GMT -5
OK the sytrofoam carving is done and the parts fit together with minimal force. Notion is that the projector/side prongs are removable and pointing straight up for ease of transport. Before I start though the styrofoam needs to be smoothed and protected, because let's face it it is somewhat flimsy material. So for the terrian/model builders, what is generally the best 'covering' material for styrofoam? My first thought was to go over the surface with a hair dryer (if it can get hot enough before covering everything in wood filler and/or some coats of liquid green stuff.
|
|
|
Post by Jack Shrapnel on Mar 14, 2018 13:20:44 GMT -5
you'll want to coat the styrofoam... it's flimsy and spray primer will melt it.
water + PVA (white) glue mixture will allow you to paint on kind of a protective layer first. You'll want to do a few coats, letting it dry each time between. Once you've got it thoroughly protected, you can spray primer and paint as normal.
|
|
|
Post by trantos01 on Mar 14, 2018 13:25:00 GMT -5
Thanks. Just need to finish messing around with the doomsday cannon first. Going to try and see if I can build a semi-realistic looking crystal shape using the prongs as a guide.
|
|
|
Post by Trickster Raven on Mar 17, 2018 23:14:49 GMT -5
I haven't sprayed any foam, so I can't speak to the effectiveness of sealers. But as far as getting a good base to work off of, the pva trick Shannon suggested has always worked well for me. Another thing that might work is to paint a layer or two of cheap (dollar store) paint over top first. Again, not sure how it will react to any sprays, but it works really well when building a base on which to add other colours. Something I haven't tried, but have seen used online, is to cover the model in some kind of filler before painting. Drywall and wood filler seem to be the standards. Again, not sure how it reacts to spray, but it does seem to be very good at strengthening the model. If delicacy is a concern it might be worth looking at.
|
|
|
Post by trantos01 on Mar 28, 2018 22:17:54 GMT -5
Well one thing is for sure, the new Cryptek design is fun to paint. The best part is, the connections are snug enough that he doesn't have to be glued into the cloak. So if he/the cloak needs a touch-up later on, I can just pop him out of the socket. The only mixed news was with the shades I was trying out. Druchii Violet produced an interesting effect on the cloak making it appear deeper and richer in color. However the Agrax Earthshade that I used didn't seem to really do much as far as I could tell.
|
|
|
Post by Jack Shrapnel on Mar 29, 2018 6:02:42 GMT -5
good job, looks like a fun model to paint!
|
|
|
Post by trantos01 on May 19, 2018 17:41:08 GMT -5
|
|