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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Nov 1, 2019 7:38:10 GMT -5
looking good!
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Post by trantos01 on Nov 1, 2019 18:08:38 GMT -5
Of course I'm going to have to do a number of more tests with the Ironcrust because that first run really didn't give the effect I wanted. But if worst comes to worse I can just have the wood filler lava flows as is and use the texture paint to help make more gradual transitions when I'm piling cork on top of itself. Because if you look at IRL lava fields, there can be jagged edges at elevation changes but not always.
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Post by trantos01 on Nov 3, 2019 22:21:45 GMT -5
Looks like the author of the youtube video was right. Lay the ironearth on heavily and give it multiple hours to dry.
Two tests over yellow paint with the top one being a thinner application. Fortunately you can drybrush the surface of this stuff (if carefully) in black leaving the red sides to mesh with the colors of lava underneath.
Might even grab a pot of Mordant Earth (pure black version of this stuff) to try similar effects with other colors as the base.
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Post by trantos01 on Nov 12, 2019 21:22:26 GMT -5
Well that did not work like I expected.
However in large areas the texture paint seems to have literally absorbed/yanked the underlying paint layers right off the woodfiller base. It wasn't that the paint was still damp, it had an entire day to dry and the filler had the same beforehand (if not moreso). And in some areas the paint remains while in other's it's just gone.
Has anyone run into this sort of effect before? I could do another test by varnishing the lava beforehand but considering how all the paint was just slurped up I don't know if that will change anything.
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Post by voodoo on Nov 13, 2019 14:29:30 GMT -5
I confess, I have no experience with the Ironearth. Maybe making the surface less porous will help? For that try bushing on some white glue or gesso and letting it dry fully before doing the Ironearth.
Just a thought as again, I haven't ever used the stuff.
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Post by trantos01 on Feb 18, 2020 22:36:13 GMT -5
Models and decals are down so it's down to the board. Fortunately Wyloch was spot on when it comes to quickly making jagged and broken mountains etc using a hobby knife and a metal ruler.
Just need to wait for the glue to dry so the cork etc is stiffened up and I can get to sanding the top of the cliff and then painting. I'll be cribbing from another Wyloch idea I saw in terms of the Necron gate. If all goes according to plan, the cork sheets and wood filler for the lava streams will be in place tomorrow and I'll have Thurday and Friday night for painting.
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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Feb 19, 2020 6:43:10 GMT -5
thinking this is going to turn out pretty cool
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Post by trantos01 on Feb 19, 2020 6:57:30 GMT -5
thinking this is going to turn out pretty cool Fortunately I have enough wood filler and cork sheet to make some nice winding lava rivers and a slight elevation change here and there.
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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Feb 19, 2020 8:53:36 GMT -5
there's extra points for all that
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Post by trantos01 on Feb 20, 2020 22:25:35 GMT -5
Well base colors are down but it's a good thing I allocated two nights for painting. The downside of the Wyloch rock technique is that in order to get all the crevices in the 'rock' painted you need a ton of paint, an airbrush/spray can or water down the paint so it flows into the cracks.
I used the latter method and while it covers everything, between it and needing to repaint some areas of the cork, it's probably going to be tomorrow when I can start putting down the grey/silver drybrush on the 'stone' and work on the green of the portal etc.
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Post by trantos01 on Jul 8, 2020 22:42:35 GMT -5
Well out of all the 3D jigsaw puzzles I've ever seen or built, the Szeras model is one of the twistier. Only two niggiling issues that I'll have to do some cutting and grey-stuff for. For the guy on the ground getting drained, his left shoulder and hand didn't quite match up with the rest so I'm going to have to add some grey-stuff to seal up the hole. Meanwhile the front leg that is pinning the guy to the ground is not only supposed to slot into the hip joint but also a dangling cable. Unfortunately they don't match up if I want the hip joint flush. So after I get some fresh plastic glue, a bit of cutting and repositioning, we'll be off to the races/priming the various parts.
Still I'd expected to have a lot more trouble assembling this guy. Props to the model makers over at GW.
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Post by trantos01 on Sept 11, 2020 20:20:59 GMT -5
Took a lot longer than it should have but Szeras is nearly done. Just need to let the glue completely set, double check things, clean up around the joints and properly attach him to his base with some flock etc.
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Post by trantos01 on Feb 19, 2021 19:54:43 GMT -5
Well the last of the touchups and repainting is done. All that's left is to pack up everything for tomorrow.
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Post by trantos01 on Apr 11, 2021 21:03:36 GMT -5
Well temptation finally took hold (and the indomitus box has just been looking at me).
Did a test paint job with the easy-assemble primaris intercessor (yes, the nuln oil in the cracks is still drying in the pic) that Mike handed out as freebies way back when they first appeared. Unlike my gaudier Necrons I'm intending for a more 'austere' design aside from the pauldrons and bits of gold here and there.
I actually came up with the design using Bolter and Chainsword's Space Marine Painter. They have a bunch of 'models' for multiple factions so you can just mess around with potential paint schemes for your mini without having to put paint to plastic just yet.
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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Apr 12, 2021 5:59:02 GMT -5
As all good xenos players know, eventually you always end up getting space marines too! lol
cool scheme!
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