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Post by VaUkos on Dec 21, 2022 2:16:11 GMT -5
I want some insight/help with weathering effects on terrain and what techniques you know or use.
so what I'm dealing with is city ruins with kinda light grey walls, shaded white floors and metallic roofs and trim.
What kinda look I'm looking for is a grimy/dirty/dusty look on the walls to darken them a bit more to look like old ruins
Some things I think that might work is agrax earthshade but I'm doing quite a lot of terrain and I feel like I might go through alot of pots, something I was looking at was the army painter quickshade but I don't know what tone would be best to use and I've heard that it goes on shiny/glossy and I want to keep a matte look bit I've never used it.
Other thing I'm curious about if could you use shades through an airbrush for weathering techniques or is it better to use a brush and makeup sponge?
If a picture of the ruins helps to kinda visually compare/understand I can add one.
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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Dec 21, 2022 7:05:30 GMT -5
I use nuln oil. Or if you're doing a lot of terrain then armypainter dark tone is also fine. I'd do some sporadic green wash, earthshade wash first to give some look of natural stone (ie: my basing method) then once dry spray nuln oil all over it.
I'd definitely put the wash through an airbrush. You use a LOT less of it and it is really quick. Plus lets you control pooling much better.
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Post by ohgodsnakes on Dec 21, 2022 8:16:33 GMT -5
As Shannon said, you can definitely use the shade through the airbrush, it's just going to act completely differently. Instead of flowing into recesses, it will act like a filter, tinting the colors below. I use this to give my models depth, and then go in afterwards with a controlled pin wash. For doing this to terrain, I'm using a burnt umber ink instead of citadel shades. The colour is far more concentrated and applies this filtering effect faster over a larger area using a fraction of the paint. Here is the one I use www.jacksonsart.com/en-ca/daler-rowney-fw-artists-ink-29-5ml-burnt-umber. The other nice thing about inks and washes through the airbrush is they require almost no thinning! You can use this to your advantage and make it appear like larger areas are covered in a layer of grime. I'd post an example, but you'll have to wait till club champs to see it! |
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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Dec 21, 2022 8:56:31 GMT -5
oh yeah... burnt umber... Lukas convinced me to use that stuff... it's AWESOME
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Post by Frosty the Pirate on Dec 21, 2022 9:09:34 GMT -5
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Post by voodoo on Dec 21, 2022 11:14:52 GMT -5
I use a plastic shoebox with a snap-top lid and put in a bunch of black acrylic paint and water to create a black ink bath. Agitate, then dip; repeat as necessary to get coverage required.
Good if you don't own an airbrush, but not as precise as what Shannon and Lukas have made mention of.
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Post by VaUkos on Dec 21, 2022 12:12:43 GMT -5
Thank you everyone for the info and help I really appreciate it and now i have a bit more confidence in what im going to do next and I now have a plan of what I'm going to do, and I also don't have to burn a hole in the pocket for just shades and washes. I wouldn't have though that you could use dish soap as an medium too.
Also ohgoddsnakes I'm looking forwards to seeing it
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Post by brujonation on Dec 22, 2022 9:50:07 GMT -5
Hi, for terrain I don't like using my expensive washes so I make my own.
if I go acrylic I go with some cheap craft paints, or even inks, mix with water and acrylic medium amd a drop or 2 of dish soap ( acts like a flow improver) and just dilute it down the the strength I want.
or I do something similar with oil paints, but just use mineral spirits to thin it down to wash consistency, the oil washes have a crazy amount of flow so they soak right into the crevices, and if it's too much, you can wipe it away with a cloth or sponge after 20minutes or so.
especially if it's for a larger project.
I haven't done any weather using powders yet, but you can make pigment powder from a cheap set of pastels (dry pastel sticks, not the oil based ones) and scrape it with a sharp blade into a container and you can just use it the same way as pigment powder. (I'll be doing this on some of my models soon, so I'll let you know how it goes lol)
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Post by question on Dec 22, 2022 14:49:08 GMT -5
Inks and washes have been pretty well covered above so no comment there.
I also use weathering powders, both purchased and home made. The purchased I like for consistency. The home made I like for price (acrylic pastels). In addition to a knife, I have also used a zester (cheap ones at the dollar store). If you can't get the size of granule/flake down fine enough, try a mortar & pestle. I got mine at Value Village for $4. A very little effort and you can get the grind down really fine. Most are stone but mine is heavy glass so no worries about any residue even after washing.
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Post by VaUkos on Dec 22, 2022 22:06:51 GMT -5
I might explore the weathering pigments when i get the ink/washes down and do some research on them to aswell. thanks again for the idea's.
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