deshane
Warrior
When in doubt... Trample with Deathjack
Posts: 76
|
Post by deshane on Mar 24, 2013 22:22:34 GMT -5
Hey everyone,
Hopefully one of you guys can help me with a mistake i made...
When i first started fantasy around October, i was not a very good painter and didn't adapt as well as others. I based all of my TK's in Army Builder White. aged bones are not typically pure white. This was obviously the laziest way to paint them. As i was new and excited to play i didn't think about the future... and now i see the consequences.
After watching many videos and studying i can see many mistakes i have made and skipped a lot of steps to make them look more appealing. I know that i cannot fix them the way i wanted them to look.
Perhaps there is a way to wash them and make them look more aged? or something that can make them less... White?
Thanks, Mike
|
|
|
Post by nekekami on Mar 25, 2013 1:14:02 GMT -5
Give them a good drybrush of bleached bone, and apply some sepia wash, imo.
Same principal I use for my Deathwing Terminators, don't see how it'd be much different.
|
|
|
Post by Jack Shrapnel on Mar 25, 2013 5:32:06 GMT -5
I definitely agree with nekekami's advice... light drybrush of ushabi bone (the new "bleached bone" colour) is a great start...
from here either try a sepia wash for aging... or the brown wash if you're going for a dirtier look...
picking out a few details with a spot colour (turquoise is a good one for TK) can also make things pop a bit...
|
|
|
Post by usscott on Mar 25, 2013 10:00:22 GMT -5
Argue what the 2 post both are good ways to go paint is all about layers.if it was me I do blechbone then a fake Brown make shor to get it in the eye and in the mouth any were u wood think shadowing would be then bleachbone ag then sepia wash 1/1max of water just what like better 1/1 or start sepia wash a layer blechbone tho not as hard as be for them a 1/1 blechbone and skull wight win that done and dry do 1/1max skull wight and water over the very high lights and the teeth
Ps. You can skip step in the mid and end it still look good for best look then and do each over the hole army
|
|
deshane
Warrior
When in doubt... Trample with Deathjack
Posts: 76
|
Post by deshane on Mar 25, 2013 10:46:17 GMT -5
So many different ways to fix them, makes me much happier knowing that i CAN fix them. My army is based on hordes so it would be a big job just doing it the easy way...but i don't want to come back and fix it up later in the future. They're both great ideas and I'm going down to Nexus today to pick up all the washes and paints and I'll try both on separate models just to see what one would look better
Thanks everyone!
|
|
Edg3ofR3ason
Immortal
Champion of the Anvach Arena of Death
Contrary to popular opinion, 'I'm not dead yet!'
Posts: 340
|
Post by Edg3ofR3ason on Mar 25, 2013 11:16:02 GMT -5
Hey Mike, I always start with a base of white instead of black for TK. As you will note everyone seems to have something slightly different in terms of how to paint and it really depends on what look you want to attain for the army. In painting my TK army I wanted a 'just raised from the sand' look so I used the following combination: base coat: white layer 1: balor brown (snakebite leather) wash: agrax earthshade (devlan mud) layer 2: zamesi desert (bubonic brown) layer 3: kislev flesh (elf flesh) optional layer 4 or drybrush: ushabti bone (bleached bone) drybrush or highlight: white optional depending on the 'whiteness level' you want Agrax earthshade can then be used on selected areas to deepen the contrast. I would not recommend Nuln oil given that the black content will overpower the subtle browns and yellows that you are trying to achieve with this layering method.
|
|
deshane
Warrior
When in doubt... Trample with Deathjack
Posts: 76
|
Post by deshane on Mar 25, 2013 11:30:42 GMT -5
Yea Kerry, I was looking at the agrax earthshade in particular thinking that would make my bright skele's a little darker. Now that i have the steps aswell this will make my project even more easier ;D
One more thing... while i was basing, the base of majority of the models were painted white aswell. Is there anyway to fix this?
|
|
|
Post by canadianguy on Mar 25, 2013 17:26:01 GMT -5
Saw a TK army once where the guy did the "pinsol" dip I kid u not. Looked good. Anyone know that one?
|
|
Edg3ofR3ason
Immortal
Champion of the Anvach Arena of Death
Contrary to popular opinion, 'I'm not dead yet!'
Posts: 340
|
Post by Edg3ofR3ason on Mar 25, 2013 18:39:23 GMT -5
Over spray is normal with regard to bases. I would decide what you want to do with your bases first. Others might want to weight in here as I'm still relatively a 'newbie' at painting especially bases. If you want to do a simple desert sand finish then I would not worry about the bases until you have finished painting the models. Apply either black or a dark to medium dark brown (many to choose from in the GW pallet or use an acrylic paint from Michael's as you get a lot more for your money) then apply some thinned white glue and sand. Drybrushing with armageddon dust and underhive ash is also a possibility. check GW painting guide for other colour combinations www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/paintChart.jsp?catId=cat820002a&rootCatGameStyle=paints-tools
|
|
|
Post by voodoo on Mar 27, 2013 8:44:14 GMT -5
For the bases I recommend calling up one of the quarries in town and asking them if they produce sand for the manufacture of concrete. It’s graded sand meaning it has a “well graded” range of particulate sizes. Long story short it looks like a rocky desert. It shouldn’t cost you much (or anything depending on how much you need). Barring a quarry, there’s several supply places for building materials in town that might also have the same stuff.
I used it to base my display board, I painted mine but the color mix in it bare is well, sand-tone.
|
|