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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Jul 16, 2019 5:37:10 GMT -5
looks good!
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Post by question on Jul 16, 2019 6:07:33 GMT -5
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Post by voodoo on Jul 16, 2019 6:44:29 GMT -5
Looks cool; looks like a monster of a model, for sure going to be cool to see one.
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Post by trantos01 on Jul 16, 2019 7:22:39 GMT -5
Looks cool; looks like a monster of a model, for sure going to be cool to see one. The interesting part of the assembly is that there is so much flexibility in how the six legs can be posed. Because I have three different points of alignment: a ball joint at the 'hips' while the 'elbow' and 'wrist' connecters are flat disks going into slots.
Of course downside is that via the rules this thing's base is an irregular hexagonal based on where the legs touch the ground (or a straight line down if the leg is raised. Meaning that if I'm not careful this guy's 'base' could end up truly massive and since the only things he doesn't care about when moving are infantry and swarms; he could literally get stuck behind/be blocked by terrain pieces.
Also since all his weight is going to be on said six legs so I can't get too fancy.
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Post by voodoo on Jul 16, 2019 8:09:13 GMT -5
Can't get too fancy with posing? I say NAY!! Be as fancy as you like, that's what steel pins are for. Attachments:
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Post by trantos01 on Jul 16, 2019 8:28:48 GMT -5
Mostly I'm going to be elevating/shifting the poses on the legs to give a sense of movement and maybe have one of the forelimbs striking out or posed defensively in front of the torso. ( something like this)
I'm still keeping it mostly on the ground since I'm of the (heretical I'm sure) opinion that giant mecha should actually have a sense of weight and mass.
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Post by voodoo on Jul 16, 2019 8:54:49 GMT -5
ooooo, I like the pose!
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Post by trantos01 on Jul 16, 2019 12:44:46 GMT -5
Looking at the arm assembly the ball joint is made up of four different cups holding the ball ( best image I could find of the assembly).
I'm definitely going to be painting and varnishing the ball as heavily as possible but would it be better to leave the inside of the cups bare? I just don't want to find that by moving the arm to a better position, I'm slowly stripping/wearing off all the paint off the ball (and thus have to constantly go in with a tiny brush to fix things).
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Post by voodoo on Jul 16, 2019 13:07:50 GMT -5
If it were me, I'd find the position I like the most and drill a pin into both sides. You only need to fix one half of the pin, but it'll allow you the ability to remove the arm while not having to worry about it flopping around like a dead crab being pushed across a gaming table.
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Post by trantos01 on Jul 16, 2019 13:20:33 GMT -5
Not quite sure what you're getting at here. Are you suggesting to drill into the arms to place pins in order to hold the ball in place while I'm moving the model around the table?
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Post by voodoo on Jul 16, 2019 13:52:30 GMT -5
Correct, like the ball and socket joint in the FW knight legs. They make them that way to improve the posing possibilities, but keeping them connected, even if it's an arm is a real nightmare. If it's not held in place by a magnet stuffed inside the ball joint, or a pin drilled into each side of the ball joint it'll just hang limp.
You could also pin it then glue solid if you want, but it'd make it harder to transport, something I know you were trying to make easier earlier on in the thread.
That said, it's a moot point if the gun arms are short enough to just get fixed into place.
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Post by trantos01 on Jul 23, 2019 13:19:34 GMT -5
Well the good news is from test fits there is a sort of armor ridge that limits movement and the arms hold the ball tight enough that any 'flopping should be minimal (ergo no pinning required). Unfortunately there appears to be a tiny bit of warping somewhere in the many points of contact etc that throw off the final link-up connections when I don't apply force to get the entire assembly in the right position.
So the best bet looks to be get all the support arms and weapon arm painted, grey-stuff the sockets on the core, them force everything into proper position and let it set.
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Post by trantos01 on Jul 27, 2019 6:17:33 GMT -5
Correct, like the ball and socket joint in the FW knight legs. They make them that way to improve the posing possibilities, but keeping them connected, even if it's an arm is a real nightmare. If it's not held in place by a magnet stuffed inside the ball joint, or a pin drilled into each side of the ball joint it'll just hang limp. You could also pin it then glue solid if you want, but it'd make it harder to transport, something I know you were trying to make easier earlier on in the thread. That said, it's a moot point if the gun arms are short enough to just get fixed into place. Well turns out you called it, though not in the way I expected. Turns out that instead of being too loose, the connectors are too tight. When I was assembling the arms and ball joint, the 'cups' end up tearing the paint and varnish right off the encircled piece.
And yes, before people bring it up, I did wash the pieces well with soap and water so the release agent isn't a factor here.
So my options are scrap away at the inside of the cups and find some sort of cushioning/padding material or just glue the entire piece together. I'm really leaning towards the second option.
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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Jul 27, 2019 6:25:52 GMT -5
you might need to just glue it together... even if it means tougher transport
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Post by trantos01 on Oct 31, 2019 22:10:25 GMT -5
So decided to get started experimenting on various upgrades to my display board for C.Champs and the supply of cork rolls I'm getting, I figured going for rock+lava streams with the Dynasty symbol I had previously painted on the wood displayed in the middle.
First of course is the test piece since I don't want to paint the board only to find out it doesn't work.
Step one: Khorne red as a base for the river and some dollar-store black on the cork. The texture is actually from some wood filler I added to the river 'bed' to give a sense of the lava actually moving as it flows as opposed to just flat paint in a trough.
Step two: Adding the Wildrider red, Trollslayer orange and Yriel yellow intentionally mucking an mixing things around since it wouldn't be a uniform hot to cold from the center to the edges.
Step three: Here's where I'm really trying out various ideas. The ironcrust stayed a single mass so it either needs to go on thinner/thicker or I break down and grab Ironearth (couldn't find one in the paint bargain bin). The other blobs or color on the river are other texture paints that I was testing to see how they would behave. Finally I mucked around with the cork with the idea of having a red glow (to show the heat of the nearby lava) with the black on top. Of course it would probably help to paint the relivent sections red first and then carefully drybrush on the black. Though going to be drybrushing the middle cork that had a lot more red applied to see how it turns out.
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