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Post by trantos01 on Aug 5, 2017 22:02:37 GMT -5
Hey all, Figured since it seems to be the rage, I'd start a thread of my soon to begin painting project. First off, muchas gracias to everyone at Nexus for the tips and help in paint selection. After I give them their soapy bath (every site I check recommends this) and prime the suckers it's off to the races. General notion is a couple of layers of P3 Rhulic Gold (maybe 1 to 1 for thinning, will have to see) for the body with a similar stunt with pig iron for most of the weapon parts. Give the entire thing a wash of nuln oil (seems to be suggested thinning that out a bit as well) before finally moot green in the glowing bits. Got a few questions for the crew though: 1. Can anyone recommend a good varnish? 2. Would a drybrush of the same paints on the sections really do anything useful? 3. I checked out GW's method for making a good green glow for the requisite parts. Thing is they use multiple paints while I only want to use moot green here. Would varying the amount of water for thinning along with changing where I paint (basecoat entire thing then half then tip) potentialy gave a similar effect?
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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Aug 6, 2017 7:30:13 GMT -5
don't need to thin nuln oil at all... it's at the right wash consistency...if you thin it, you're asking for trouble as if you do it too much you've basically got dirty water...just don't go to heavy handed with it at first til you make sure the look you're going for.
as for your questions:
1. army painter Matte is the "varnish" I use because I don't want things shiny... if you actually want the shiny look they have a spray finish for that too, but I think the Matte finish always looks superior 2. If you've washed the colour with nuln oil, it will make a difference if you lightly drybrush with the same colour as the nuln oil takes the shade down a bit. 3. thinning with water changes the consistency of your paint, but not the colour at all. so it won't give you that varied glowing look. You can always do a glow effect with one colour and if you're light on the brush... the video you linked to though was Duncan doing a highlight rather than a glow effect on the necron warrior... for the highlight you need to use a different colour or it won't show up at all. you can get away with two greens to do this but you cannot do it with one.
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Post by trantos01 on Aug 6, 2017 8:32:29 GMT -5
Ah well can't win them all. Thanks for the advice.
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Post by voodoo on Aug 6, 2017 12:41:18 GMT -5
You could likely get a nice glow effect with a green and a yellow paint.
Start with the yellow then slowly ring back with darker green. You could even drybrush on some green around on the drybrush metal to have a mild object source light effect.
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Post by trantos01 on Aug 6, 2017 12:51:32 GMT -5
That is sort of what I was intending. Have the zones in question a good vivid green and then drybrush around the edges to give a bit of a glow.
If the weather holds I should have the test scarab (prime the whole set but only paint the one for now) ready by tonight.
Edit: And of course the weather didn't hold. At this rate it'll probably be safer to prime and paint my stuff over in the room at Nexus.
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Post by trantos01 on Aug 7, 2017 15:13:47 GMT -5
Well the test turned out better then I'd fear but not as good as I'd hoped (such is life huh?). Link to image.Screwed up a bit with the basecoat (bit too much water at the start) giving a patchy look. Similar issue when I was painting the eye on the right scarab. Still live, learn, and the bungles aren't visible from an arms length away (at least to my vision). Just have to give the thing its varnish coat and see how that effects the colors. After that, the assembly line beings.
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Post by ohgodsnakes on Aug 7, 2017 15:34:04 GMT -5
Look up "dry brushing". You can use that to diffuse the colour around the eye. Dry brush the surrounding area green to get a bit of a "glow" effect, then do the eye in solid green.
You could also look up tutorials for Object Source Lighting, which is what a lot of people are using when they talk about glowing stuff.
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Post by trantos01 on Aug 7, 2017 15:41:33 GMT -5
Possible. I'd just need to pull out the fine detail brush and cover up the spilled green around the eye with more base coat.
Then try drybrushing green around the rim. Edit: Yep, worked out well.
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Post by trantos01 on Aug 10, 2017 21:55:02 GMT -5
Whelp the Scarabs are done and I'm pretty content about how they turned out. The scuttling hordeThough I found that the single gold coat over black primer combined with a good heavy nuln oil wash creates a nice effect. You can see the metallic shine but there is the impression of dirt and muck like the little guys just burrowed their way to the surface and haven't had a chance to clean themselves yet. While there is a layer of grime still clinging to them, the photoreceptor shines brightly. I'll probably try to pull the same narrative/paint style for the warriors but if and when I start on the HQs; that bunch I'm going to try and make look a lot cleaner
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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Aug 11, 2017 6:30:30 GMT -5
great start! warriors will get done in no time!
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Post by trantos01 on Aug 11, 2017 8:55:11 GMT -5
great start! warriors will get done in no time! Course when I first assembled some of the suckers, the green rods refused to stay clipped in for some (meaning glue). I figure I can 'cheat' by making a two tone green via a watered down moot, a wash then moot highlights over top. But if worse comes to worst I can simply grab a darker green for the rod basecoat.
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Post by Jack Shrapnel on Aug 11, 2017 10:18:21 GMT -5
or remove the rods, paint the warriors, then use PVA (white elmer's style) glue to put the rods back in...
that's what Duncan says to do
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Post by trantos01 on Aug 11, 2017 11:02:21 GMT -5
Thing is, by and large I use plastic glue so I need to test if I can remove the rods without basically destroying the gun.
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Post by voodoo on Aug 11, 2017 11:07:21 GMT -5
If you don't want to remove them you could always mask the rod with green/blue painter's tape before priming.
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Post by trantos01 on Aug 11, 2017 13:05:51 GMT -5
Plain old masking tape also works and I certainly have a surplus of that.
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